Getting the perfect fit is the goal with any item we sew. Understanding the different pattern pieces and how to make adjustments will get you the perfect fit for your Briar!
Let’s start with the Briar Bralette!
First things first…… How do I measure?
In this pattern we use the difference between your UPPER bust and you FULL bust for your “cup” size. Check out this video on 2 different methods on how to measure for your cup.
You will use your FULL bust measurement to determine the “size” you are in.
Your band is determined by measuring your under bust.
Briar Bralette fit Adjustments
No two people have the same breast shape/size/volume/gravitational pull. What makes us unique and beautiful, also means we may need to make adjustments to the Briar pattern.
Too much side boob! How do I fix it?
There are a few things to consider when dealing with side boob. I encourage you to remeasuring and use both methods we offer in this video. If you are certain you are in the correct size, try a few of the troubleshooting methods below. Also, I strongly encourage you to make a muslin (sample sew with scrap fabric) before you make the entire bralette!
First question, did you use an “inner” and “outer” cup pattern piece? All styles use an outer cup, you must have both.
If you are using both the inner and outer pattern piece based on your measurements and are still having more side boob than you desire, try these methods to get your perfect fit!
Option A for side boob adjustment
Use your inner “cup” and “size” measurement based on your stats. Go up 1-2 “sizes” using the same “cup”.
Option B for side boob adjustment
Use your inner “cup” and “size” measurement based on your stats. Go up 1 “cup” using the same “size” and blend.
Straps are too long/short.
Our patterns are drafted for 5’5” to 5’7”, if you are shorter or taller than this range, you may need to adjust your straps length.
The best way to adjust and ensure that you bralette will fit you perfectly is to pin the straps to your cup and compare to your body.
Band is too wide.
The band being wide is a super easy adjustment to make! I check my band fit with every Briar I make, because the fabric I choose can alter the fit of my garment.
To get the perfect band
-Hold the band around your under bust, where it will sit when worn
-Pinch it closed
If you have excess fabric, mark with a pin and cut that off. This simple fix and it will get you the perfect fit every time!
Now that you have your perfect fit, let’s talk support!
Bralette not giving enough support
While Briar is meant as a lounge bra, there are things that can be done to give lift and togetherness. Unless you are using a fabric that is meant for support/recovery (athletic knit) your bralette will give you great comfort, but possibly less support than you want.
Support tip #1
Elastic, elastic, elastic! If you are looking for support do not skip on adding elastic at the seams of the cups. Also, to ensure the best lift possible you will want to add elastic in the straps.
–1/4” woven or braded elastic– this is super common elastic. This elastic has great stretch. It will give support, but it won’t have as much recovery as the other elastics.
–1/4” clear elastic– this is a great option for recovery, but it doesn’t have as much stretch as other options.
–1/4” swim elastic– this is my recommendation for the best stretch AND recovery.
Support tip #2
Fabric choice will also change the overall fit of your bralette. Jess did a fantastic blog on the different fabric types including a video on how to check stretch!
If your fabric has less vertical stretch, you bralette may appear “shorter”. The lack of vertical stretch will keep the bralette “in place”.
All knit fabrics are not equal in support. If you make a Briar bralette with an athletic knit, your bralette will offer more support and recovery than a bralette made with a 75% stretch DBP or rib knit.
If you look at these 3 Briar bralettes, you can see the difference in lift and togetherness.
Starting with the tie dye rib knit. It has less vertical stretch than the other 2. You can see that the bralette looks “shorter” at the cup. Fabric with less vertical stretch will naturally give a little lift as it is more restrictive. *I also knotted this one, which pulls at the center more.
The mustard is a brushed rib knit. I used elastic in all the seams and my straps are the proper length for my body. You can see that there is support both for lift and bringing them together.
The lavender picture is also a rib knit. I did not use elastic in the seams and I did not adjust the straps for my height. You can see this option of all 3 is wider set and does not have the same lift.
Next up, the Briar undies!
You can find all of the undies adjustments options in the tutorial!
Adjusting Crotch Width
Reduce width- Bring the curve up higher
Add width- lower the front curve
Adjusting the Crotch Depth
Reduce Length- Cut the back of the pattern piece. Overlap the undies by the length needed and trace the new curve.
Add Length- Cut the back of the pattern piece. Separate the undies by the length needed. Use a piece of paper to fill the gap and trace the new curve.
Lastly, the Briar shorties!
Adjusting the Rise
Reduce Rise- Cut the front and back pattern pieces. Overlap the shorties by the length needed and trace the new curve.
Add Rise- Cut the front and back pattern pieces. Separate the shorties by the length needed. Use a piece of paper to fill the gap and trace the new curve.
I hope this helps you find your Briar perfect fit! As always, we are happy to help you even further in the Fan Group!