Hi, it is Kyla here again with Inspired by Kyla! During testing an inspiration photo was posted and I just had to recreate it for you! I have since made so many of these! To get started you need to have the Laurel pattern in baby and/or girls. Today I am making a size 24 months so if that is your size… you are in luck and won’t have to do any math! ? Let’s get started:
- Start by cutting out the bodice and skirt pieces from your pattern. I am doing a tunic with trim for mine.
- Take the back bodice and measure along the bottom where the black line is. The 24m measures 11 inches. Take your measurement and multiply it by 2. This is the width of the ruffle. I did 2 inches for the length on all of my ruffles… however the bigger sizes may need a little more length. So, I cut my ruffle 2”x 22” for the back bodice.
Cut the ruffle for the back bodice using the measurements you just figured.
- Repeat step 2 for the front bodice. Please excuse my hand drawn line in the photo! The 18-24m front bodice measured 11” as well so I cut my ruffle at 2”x 22” for the front.
Cut the ruffle for the front bodice using the measurements you just figured.
- Next you will lay your front and back bodice overlapping the shoulders 3/8”. Measure the armhole (the black line). The 18-24m measured 10”. We will do the same thing here as we did with the bodice. Double that measurement and you will have the width of the flutter. I cut my flutter ruffle at 2”x 20” for the arms. Then cut 2 ruffles for the flutters using the measurements you just figured.
Next we figure out our arm band measurement. The length will be the same as the neckband. The width will be 80% of measurement of the armhole. In the 18-24m the measurement was 10” so 80% is 8”. I cut my arm bands at 1.75”x 8. Cut both arm bands based on the measurements you just figured.
- Cut the neckband via the cut chart in the pattern and you should now have all of your pieces cut. Now we get to sew!
- You don’t have to use wash away Wonder tape HOWEVER this will keep the bodice from stretching and make your job 100 times easier… so I strongly recommend it. Put wash away Wonder Tape along the bottom edge of your front bodice.
- Run a gathering stitch along the top of your front ruffle and then gather it to fit the bodice.
- Peel off the backing of the Wonder tape and stick your ruffle, Right sides together, on the bodice. Make sure your gathers are evenly spaced. Repeat steps 6-8 with the back bodice.
- Mark the center of your bodice and skirt. Lay your bodice and skirt right sides together.
Your ruffle will be stuck to the bodice with the Wonder tape and sandwiched in between the bodice and skirt.
- Match the center lines and pin the bodice and skirt together. Sew/serge these together. Repeat steps 9-10 with the back bodice.
- Iron the ruffle down and the seam allowance toward the bodice.
- Topstitch 1/8” from the seam on the front and back bodices.
- I use wash away Wonder tape again for attaching the trim. Run the Wonder tape along the very bottom of the front and back skirt.
- Peel off the backing of the Wonder tape and Attach your trim Right sides together to your front and back skirt. Make sure you leave a 1/2”-1” overhang of the trim on the sides to account for the flare of the skirt. Sew/Serge the trim on both skirts.
- Iron the trim down so the seam is ironed toward the skirt. Top stitch 1/8” from the edge.
- Place the front and back bodices right sides together and sew/serge the shoulders and side seams. Be very careful that the bodice and ruffles line up when sewing the side seam. Make sure to catch the ruffles in the side seam as well. The overhang on the trim is important because when you sew the side seams you need to continue the flare from the skirt through the trim.
- Prepare your arm and neck bands by serging the short sides and then folding in half wrong sides together and ironing.
- Attach the neckband as per pattern instructions.
- I like to use Wonder tape to hold the ruffle in place on the arm as well. Stick Wonder tape around both arm holes.
- Sew/serge the short edges of your arm ruffles making a tube. Stitch a gathering stitch around the top of the ruffles.
- Find the half way point on the top of the ruffle and mark it. This will be where the ruffle should be at the shoulder seam.
- Gather your ruffle to fit the arm matching the seam to the underarm seam and your mark to the shoulder seam. Peel off the backing of the Wonder tape and attach the ruffle. Repeat for the other arm.
- Mark the half on your arm band then place your arm band over the top of the ruffle to fit the armscye. Match up the half way point with the shoulder seam and the seam of the arm band to the under-arm seam on the bodice. Stretch it to fit just like the neckband and then sew/serge it in place. Repeat for other arm.
- Once the arm band is attached the ruffle will cover it up.
- You are finished, step back and admire your work! Try it on your cutie and post photos!!
Here are some other versions I have done. With the floral fabric I folded my arm ruffle in half so that even when the flutter flipped up you could see the design of the fabric. I cut my arm ruffle twice as long by a little less width since it was going to be thicker to gather. I cut mine for the 18-24m at 4”x16”.