5 Beginner Friendly Ways to Finish Woven Seams
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Time to read 5 min
How to Finish Seams on Woven Fabric
Sewing woven fabrics can sometimes feel like... a lot. Not necessarily because they are difficult to sew, in fact, I actually find them easier to actually sew. There is something deeply satisfying about seams lining up just so and those freshly pressed and topstitched garments! The biggest concern for most is how to finish seams and edges because most woven fabrics will fray either a little or a lot. So how do we manage the fray?
In this tutorial, we will go over 5 beginner friendly ways to finish woven seams as well as when to use them. Yes, there are definitely way more ways to finish seams- french seams, binding, flat felled seams- just to name a few. But PSCo uses a 3/8" or 1cm seam allowance and those finishes can be a little tight (if not impossible) on a smaller seam allowance. For this tutorial, we will focus on just the few beginner friendly seam finishes that will work well with a 3/8" seam allowance.
Here are the ways to finish seams that we will be going over:
Serge Together
Serge Apart
Zigzag Together
Zigzag Apart
Pinked
Let's get it!
Table of Content
5 Beginner Friendly Ways to Finish Woven Seams
1. Serge Together Method
The first way to finish woven seams is the "serge together" method. This finishing method can be done with a serger or an overcast foot on your sewing machine.
- Place the fabric right sides together and match along the seam you want to sew.
- Sew in place with a straight stitch at the desired seam allowance.
- Using a serger (or an overcast stitch), sew along the edges of the seam allowance with both sides of the seam allowance together.
When to use: I like this method for seams that don't get pressed open or when the seam allowance gets pressed to one side. Examples would be the side seams of a gathered skirt or the crotch seams of woven trousers.
Items needed: For this method you will need your sewing machine to actually sew the seam and then either a serger or overcast foot to create the finish. Here are links to some we recommend:
2. Serge Apart Method
The second way to finish woven seams is the "serge apart" method. The serge apart method is similar to the serge together method. It can also be done with a serger or an overcast foot on your sewing machine.
- Before sewing your fabric together, serge or overcast stitch along the edges of the seam you wish to sew.
- Place the pieces right sides together matching along the desired seam and sew in place with a straight stitch at the desired seam allowance.
- Press the seam allowance open using a pressing tool or your iron.
When to use: I like this method for seams that can sometimes end up a little bulky. Being able to press open the seam allowance can reduce the bulk in your seams . Examples would be the side seams and shoulder seams of a lined bodice.
Items needed: For this method you will need your sewing machine to actually sew the seam and then either a serger or overcast foot to create the finish. Here are links to some we recommend:
3. Zigzag Together Method
The next way to finish woven seams is the "zigzag together" method. This finishing method can be done with only the very basic stitches on your sewing machine.
- Place the fabric right sides together and match along the seam you want to sew.
- Sew in place with a straight stitch at the desired seam allowance.
- Using a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine, sew along the edges of the seam allowance with both sides of the seam allowance together.
When to use: I also like this method for seams that don't get pressed open or when the seam allowance gets pressed to one side. Examples would be the side seams of woven pants or the crotch seams of woven trousers.
Items needed: For this method you will need your sewing machine. Here is a link to one we recommend for beginners:
4. Zigzag Apart Method
The next way to finish woven seams is the "zig zag apart" method. The zigzag apart method is similar to the serge apart method. In essence, you are finishing the edges of the fabric before you sew them together.
- Before sewing your fabric together, zig zag stitch stitch along the edges of the seam you wish to sew making sure that you stay well within the seam allowance.
- Place the pieces right sides together matching along the desired seam and sew in place with a straight stitch at the desired seam allowance.
- Press the seam allowance open using a pressing tool or your iron.
When to use: This method is also great for bulky seams. Being able to press open the seam allowance can reduce the bulk in your seams . Examples would be the side seams and shoulder seams of a lined bodice.
Items needed: For this method you will need your sewing machine. Here is a link to one we recommend for beginners:
3. Pinked Together or Apart
The next way to finish woven seams is the "pinked" method. This finishing method can be done with only a straight stitch on your sewing machine and pair of pinking shears.
- Place the fabric right sides together and match along the seam you want to sew. Sew in place using a straight stitch at the desired seam allowance.
- Trim the seam allowance using your pinking shears.
- Press the seam allowance to either one side or open, depending on your preference.
When to use: I also like this method for seams that don't get pressed open or when the seam allowance gets pressed to one side. Examples would be the side seams of woven pants or the crotch seams of woven trousers.
Items needed: For this method you will need a sewing machine capable of a zig zag stitch. Here are links to what you need to get started:
Thank you!
We hope you learned a little something about how to finish the seams on your woven garments! Let us know what you would like to learn about next!
Sew up these woven patterns to try out what you've learned!
