How to Create a Tiered Maxi Skirt

When you begin to calculate your tiers, you need a few different measurements. First, you will need the waist measurement. This waist measurement will be used to calculate the first tier, the the first tier is used to calculate the second tier and so on and so forth. Second, you will need the finished length of the skirt. And third, you will need to determine how many tiers that you want in your skirt. For this tutorial we will be doing a Four Tier Maxi Skirt!

Before focusing on the length of the tiered pieces that you need, let's calculate the width! For this example, I will be calculating the tiers based on a 25" Waist and a 40" Maxi Length (or an XXS on the PSCo Size Chart). Using the formulas below, I will be subbing in the measurements listed to get the widths I need for the each of the tiers. 

• Tier 1: 25" x 1.5 = 37.5"
• Tier 2: 37.5" x 1.5 = 56.25"
• Tier 3: 56.25" x 1.5 = 84.5"
• Tier 4: 84.5" x 1.5 = 126.5"

Here are the tier widths for our XXS Maxi Skirt. You can customize this by subbing in your own measurements or using the Four Tier Maxi Skirt cut chart that is provided at the end of this tutorial!

So now we know the length of the tiered pieces that we need and the width of the pieces we need. How do we put all that together? Well this is where it can get a little tricky. These ruffle pieces are long! For most sizes they are going to be way over the width of your fabric. You do have options on how to cut these.

First, you can cut strips at the correct length that you need and sew them together until you get the total width that you need. In most cases, this will use less fabric and is a good option for fabrics with busy prints where you're less likely to see the seams. I will be honest though, this is not my favorite method. I like knowing where my seams will end up so I can place them somewhere "hidden". Yes, you will still see them but they won't end up at the dead center of the front of your skirt. If you are doing this method, remember that when you are cutting your final length that you need to use add seam allowance to get the proper finished width!

The second method is the one that I prefer and that is to calculate how many equal tier pieces you will need based on the width of your fabric. You do this by calculating how many inches are in 1 WOF, 2 WOF, 3 WOF, 4 WOF, etc and then comparing that to the total number of inches that you need. This will also help you to calculate how much yardage you need!

Let's use our XXS Skirt Widths and assume that we are using 44" wide Fabric. Below you will see the measurements for how long we can make each piece. The absolute longest each of our equal ruffle pieces can be is 44" wide and I want a minimum of two pieces for each tier. As a reminder, here are the XXS Tier Widths:

• Tier 1: 25" x 1.5 = 37.5"
• Tier 2: 37.5" x 1.5 = 56.25"
• Tier 3: 56.25" x 1.5 = 84.5"
• Tier 4: 84.5" x 1.5 = 126.5"

Looking at the chart below, I see that my finished measurement for Tier 1 is less that one time the WOF. This means to calculate my first tier pieces, I will divide my total length needed by 2 and add seam allowance for each side. This will look something like this:

Tier 1: Total Inches (37.5") / 2 Ruffle Pieces = 18.75 + 2(.375" SA) = 19.5" width

Now we will add the lengths of the tiered pieces that we calculated from the previous step to get the dimensions of the pieces that we need to cut.

Tier 1: Cut (2) Pieces at 12.25" L x 19.5" W

Now let's look at calculating one of the pieces that is longer than our WOF. For the Tier 2 piece, we need a total of 56.25". Just by looking at this measurement I know that I am going to be able to work with just 2 ruffle pieces and 2 times the WOF. The same is true for Tier 3 at 84.5" total width. Let's calculate those tiers:

Tier 2: Total Inches (56.25") / 2 Ruffle Pieces = 28.125 + 2(.375" SA) = 28.875" width

Let's round that number up and add a the lengths:

Tier 2: Cut (2) Pieces at 10.75" L x 29" W

I won't repeat the same steps for Tier 3 but here is the final rounded length and width for that tier:

Tier 3: Cut (2) Pieces at 10.75" L x 43" W

Now we have the tier 4 piece and this one will require 3 pieces since the finished length is more than double the WOF. On this calculation we will divide the amount width needed by 3 and then add seam allowance.

Tier 4: Total Inches (126.5") / 3 Ruffle Pieces = 42.25 + 2(.375" SA) = 43" width

The numbers there are rounded up to the nearest .25", now let's add a the lengths:

Tier 4: Cut (3) Pieces at 11.375" L x 43" W

That's it! Now we have calculated all of the pieces that you will need. It definitely seems like a lot of work and this project is a labor of love but it's totally worth it. 

First, let's cover the waistband casing construction on Tier 1. 

*If you need advice on how to finish the seams on a woven fabric, check out the blog post HERE.

1. Take your Tier 1 pieces and place them right sides together. Match along each of the short edges and pin in place. Sew together at each side seam to form a loop with a 3/8" seam allowance. (All seam allowances are 3/8" unless otherwise stated.)

2. Fold the top edge of the Tier 1 skirt piece over 3/8" (1cm) toward the wrong side and iron in place. 

3. Fold the top edge over a second time at 1 3/4" for 1.5" elastic or 1 1/4" for 1" elastic and press in place. Sew channel all around the top of the skirt 1/8" away from the bottom folded edge leaving a 2" opening to thread the elastic through. 

I like to add the elastic last, so let's get started on the tiers!

4. Now we will construct our second, third and fourth tiers. Do do this you will place all the pieces right sides together and sew along the short edges to form loops. This is the same no matter how many ruffle pieces that you have.  

5. On the fourth tier piece, turn the hem up 1" toward the wrong side and sew in place to secure. 

6. Now we will add our gathering stitches. Make sure that you have a full bobbin and adjust your stitch length to the longest length and loosen your bobbin tension slightly. Leaving long tails at the beginning and end of each, sew two rows of gathering stitches, one 1/4" away from the edge and one 3/8" away from the edge of each piece listed below:

• Top of Tier 2, 3, & 4

7. By evenly pulling on both bobbin threads, gather the top of Tier 2 to match the bottom of Tier 1. Take the time to adjust the gathers evenly and press to help keep them in place. 

8. With right sides together, pin the top of Tier 2 to the bottom of Tier 1. Pin all around and sew in place. Finish the seam if desired and use a seam ripper to remove the gathering stitches

Repeat this process to attach Tiers 3 & 4 to the skirt. 

9. Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the elastic through the casing being careful not to twist the elastic. 

10. Overlap the ends by 1/4" and secure with a bartack. 

11. Sew the opening closed and stretch the waistband to evenly distribute the gathers.

If desired, topstitch the waistband by pulling the elastic taught as you sew even channels through the elastic. For 1.5" Elastic, I like to keep the channels .5" apart. For 1" Elastic, I sew one channel .25" from the top and 1 channel .25" from the bottom. 

Sewing a tiered skirt can be a little... tedious? But the outcome is almost always worth it! Now you can step back and admire all your hard work! 

Wondering what to pair with your tiered skirt? Take a look at these pattern suggestions of some of our favorite tops and bodysuits to pair!