Three Methods for Gathering Fabric

Gathering fabric is a beautiful way to add volume, shape, and a touch of whimsy to your garments. Whether you're adding ruffles to a skirt or shaping puff sleeves, gathering is a sewing skill worth mastering.

In this post, we’ll cover three popular methods for gathering fabric that will leave your garment with swoon worthy gathers. Let’s dive in!

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Best for: Most woven fabrics, precise control
Skill level: Beginner-friendly

The basting stitch is the most common gathering technique and a great place to start. It offers full control over the size and distribution of your gathers.

How to do it:

• Set your sewing machine to a long straight stitch (typically 4.0–5.0 mm).
• Sew two rows of parallel stitches within, leaving long thread tails of about 4-5" on both ends. *Do not backstitch.
• Gently pull the bobbin threads (the ones on the underside) to gather the fabric.
• Distribute the gathers evenly.
• Sew the gathered piece to its companion fabric.
• Remove the basting stitches if visible or if they will affect the stretch of knit garments.

Best for: Knit or lightweight woven fabrics, garments needing stretch
Skill level: Intermediate

Elastic creates functional gathers with built-in stretch—perfect for waistbands.

How to do it:

• Determine the finished width needed by measuring the piece to which the gathered piece will be sewn.
• Cut 1/4" elastic the same width or slightly smaller than the finished width needed. Tip: Exercise the elastic before measuring and cutting.
• Pin or clip the ends of the elastic to the ends of the fabric piece that will be gathered.
• While stretching evenly sew (using a zigzag stitch) or serge (with knife disengaged) the elastic to the fabric. 
• Sew the gathered piece to its companion fabric.

Best for: Lightweight to medium-weight fabrics, gathered skirts, ruffles, or finishing edges while gathering
Skill level: Intermediate to advanced

If you want to gather and finish your edge in one go, your serger can do the job quickly and cleanly.

How to do it:

• Set your differential feed to a higher setting (1.5–2.0) to encourage gathering.
  
  

• Increase your stitch length and width. Adjust the needle/thread tension if needed. Suggested: Stitch Width- 5.5, Stitch Length- 4
  
  

• Run the fabric through the serger. It should start to gather on its own as the feed dogs move at different rates.
  
  

• For more dramatic gathers, lightly pull the needle threads after stitching or adjust your settings further.

Tip: It is recommended to test on scrap fabric and adjust setting as needed before sewing your project.

• When gathering large sections (a tiered skirt, for example), divide the piece and the piece it will be sewn to into sections. Mark the sections with a pin, clip, or removable pen. Match the sections and gather evenly between the sections.
•  Once the gathers have been distributed as desired, press or steam the gathers to reduce bulk before sewing.
• It can be helpful to baste the gathered piece to its companion piece before sewing the final seam to help prevent unwanted shifting and slipping.
• When gathering thicker fabrics, be sure to use a thicker thread and pull gently to prevent thread breakage. 

Each of these gathering methods brings something unique to your sewing toolkit. Whether you want maximum control with basting, functional stretch with elastic, or a speedy finish with a serger, choosing the right method will elevate your project. There is just something awe inspiring about beautifully sewn gathers! 

 Which gathering method are you looking forward to mastering?